exit 9 nj turnpike drive into town. BUS Frequent public buses depart from the PTC for Jubilee and Imlibun stations. Mor

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. exit 9 nj turnpike (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

drive into town. BUS Frequent public buses depart from the PTC for Jubilee exit 9 nj turnpike and Imlibun stations. More comfy are AC Aeroexpress (%18004192008; h24hr) buses ( 175), which run half-hourly to Charminar, Secunderabad, Begumpet, Mehdipatnam exit 9 nj turnpike and Hitec City.

Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking exit 9 nj turnpike like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly ringed by stairs.