interstate 18 kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,00

Qutb Shahi Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; admission 10, camera/video 20/100; h9am-5pm) These graceful domed tombs sit serenely in landscaped gardens about 1.5km northwest of Golconda Fort s Balahisar Gate. Seven of the nine Qutb Shahi rulers interstate 18 were buried here, as well as members of the royal family and respected citizens from entertainers to doctors. You could easily spend half a day here taking photos and wandering in and out of the mausoleums. The upper level of Mohammed Quli s tomb, reached via a narrow staircase, has good views of the area. The Qutb Shahi Tombs booklet ( 20) may be available at the ticket counter.

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate interstate 18 tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, interstate 18 in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.