528 tolls Survival within the fort was also attributable to water and sound. A series of concealed glazed eart

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra 528 tolls s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces 528 tolls of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around 528 tolls the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. 528 tolls But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka 528 tolls s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South.

Survival within the fort was also attributable to water and sound. A series of concealed glazed earthen pipes ensured a reliable water supply, while the ingenious design of the diamond-shaped ceiling Grand Portico creates an acoustic system 528 tolls that carries even the smallest echo across the fort complex up to the highest point of the fort used as a security system. Guides can also demonstrate the equally impressive acoustics in the royal palace where one s whisper into

898 ANDHRA PRADESH Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara Hills; h11am-7pm) Shrishti ART GALLERY (www.shrishtiart.com; Rd No 15, Jubilee Hills; 528 tolls h11am-7pm) C Courses Vipassana International Meditation Centre BUDDHIST MEDITATION (Dhamma Khetta; %24240290; www.khetta. dhamma.org; Nagarjuna Sagar Rd, 12.6km) The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive 10-day meditation courses 528 tolls in its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office (%24732569). A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad on the fi rst and last day of courses. T Tours APTDC (p 906 ) tours the city ( 270), Ramoji Film City ( 600), Nagarjuna Sagar (weekends, 450) and Tirupathi/Tirumala (three days, 1950). The Sound & Light tour ( 200) takes in Hitec City, the botanic gardens and Golconda Fort s sound-and-light show, but you may spend much of it in traffi c. Tours leave from APTDC s Secunderabad branch (Map p 896 ) : : : : : : : 66 66 66 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 6 66 66 66 66 66 # R R # # # # # # # # # #

Park HOTEL $$$ (%2754488; www.theparkhotels.com; Beach Rd; s/d from 7000/9000; 528 tolls ais) Vizag s only five-star is very elegant, very high-design. Even if you don t stay here, visit Bamboo Bay, its beachfront restaurant, for a drink. Checkout is noon.