exit 7a nj turnpike Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, a

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, exit 7a nj turnpike the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College exit 7a nj turnpike (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

Coco s INDIAN/CONTINENTAL $$ (off Map p902; %23540600; Rd No 2; mains 120325; h11.30am-11.30pm) This chilled-out exit 7a nj turnpike rooftop restaurant/bar almost succeeds exit 7a nj turnpike in resembling a bamboo beach shack, though it s position on a busy road above a Chinese restaurant was always going to make it tough. Looking out over KBR Park, relaxed Coco s

Hyderabad owes its existence to a water shortage at Golconda in the late 16th century. The reigning Qutb Shahis were forced to relocate, and so Mohammed Quli and the royal family abandoned Golconda Fort for the banks of the Musi River. The new city of Hyderabad was established, with the brand- new Charminar as its centrepiece.

Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150; h10am-5pm Sat- Thu) The huge and varied collection, dating back to the 1st century, was put together by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (r 1910 49). The 35,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, wood carvings, ivory (including a sadly ironic set of carved elephants), devotional objects, Persian miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, weaponry, toys and more than 50,000 books. The impressive nizams jewellery collection is sometimes on display. Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it s bedlam. From any of the bus stands in the Abids area, take bus 7, which stops at Afzal Gunj bus stop (Map p 900 ) on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.