map of the united states with interstates Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150

When he was 14, Sai Baba declared himself to be the reincarnation of another Sai Baba, a saintly figure who died in 1918 (p 764 ). His millions of devotees regarded him as a true avatar and believed he performed miracles. Coming for the program of darshan (here that meant seeing Baba though since poor health in 2005 his appearances were increasingly sporadic), they packed the ashram twice-daily for chanting and prayer. The sight of clean, well-paved streets lined with internet cafes might come as a surprise here, as will the prevalence of robed foreign devotees.

Golden Glory Guesthouse HOTEL $ (Map p902; %23554765; www.goldengloryguest house.com; Rd No 3, Banjara Hills; s/d incl breakfast from 650/900, s incl breakfast without bathroom 290; aW) Nestled among the mansions map of the united states with interstates of ritzy Banjara Hills, this gem of a hotel scores big on location. Tucked down a quiet residential street, it s the perfect place to escape the madness of Hyderabad. First impressions are grand with sparkling lobby and spiral staircase, and while the cheaper rooms are boxy, they re very clean and good value (and include a simple breakfast). Pricier rooms are more spacious with balconies and bathtubs.

Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150; h10am-5pm Sat- Thu) The huge and varied collection, dating back to the 1st century, was put together by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (r 1910 49). The 35,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, wood carvings, ivory (including a sadly ironic set of carved elephants), devotional objects, Persian miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, weaponry, toys and more than 50,000 books. The impressive map of the united states with interstates nizams jewellery collection is sometimes on display. Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it s bedlam. From any of the bus stands in the Abids area, take bus 7, which stops at Afzal Gunj bus stop (Map p 900 ) on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.