the next exit 2011 4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Ashoka HOTEL $$ (%2578491; Main Rd, Hanamkonda; r from 600; ai) Good-value

Hotel Annapurna HOTEL $$ (%2250666; Nethaji Rd; r from 850; a) A wee bit overpriced, but it s convenient and well organised. Rooms are clean, compact and pink, with constant hot water. Since it s on a corner (across from the train station), non-AC front rooms can be noisy. Its veg restaurant (mains the next exit 2011 45-80) has fresh juices and Tirupathi s best food in sublime air-conditioning.

Victoria Jubilee Museum MUSEUM (MG Rd; admission Indian/foreigner 20/100, camera 3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu) The best part of this museum is the building itself, built in 1887 to honour Queen Victoria s coronation jubilee. In 1921 it hosted the Congress meeting

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Ashoka HOTEL $$ (%2578491; Main Rd, Hanamkonda; r from 600; ai) Good-value the next exit 2011 rooms near the Hanamkonda bus stand and the 1000-Pillared Temple. Also in the compound are a restaurant, a bar-restaurant, a pub and the veg Kanishka (mains 75 to 125).

Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150; h10am-5pm Sat- Thu) The huge and varied collection, dating back to the 1st century, was put together by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, the next exit 2011 Osman Ali Khan (r 1910 49). The 35,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, wood carvings, ivory (including a sadly ironic set of carved elephants), devotional objects, Persian miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, weaponry, toys and more than 50,000 books. The impressive nizams jewellery collection is sometimes on display. Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it s bedlam. From any of the bus stands in the Abids area, take bus 7, which stops at Afzal Gunj bus stop (Map p 900 ) on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.