traffic i 75 Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm,

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, traffic i 75 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm). traffic i 75

C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) Keeping the legacy traffic i 75 of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking traffic i 75 Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.