Buses run from Vijayawada to Amaravathi every half-hour or so ( 24, two hours), but it may be quicker to head to Guntur interstate 10 closures ( 12, 45 minutes) and take another bus from there. The drive here will take you through some lovely lush scenery and memorable glimpses of village life.
C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; interstate 10 closures Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested interstate 10 closures grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.
The citadel is built on a granite hill, 120m high and surrounded by crenellated ramparts constructed from large masonry blocks. The massive gates were studded with iron spikes to obstruct war elephants. Outside the citadel there stands another crenellated rampart, with a perimeter of 11km, and yet another wall beyond this. At Naya Quila (new fort), adjacent to the golf course, you can find a magnifi cent 400-year-old baobab tree (Hathiyan elephant tree), with a circumference of 25m, said to be planted by seedlings carried by African regiments from Abyssiania. Exploring the crumbling rampart in the area you ll find cannons strewn about (some with beautiful inscriptions) and great views of the fort and tombs.
Most people stay at the ashram (%287390; www.srisathyasai.org.in), a small village with all amenities. Lodging is cheap but basic. Advance bookings aren t taken; visitors under 25 must be in a family or group.
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