910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually va road map pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi va road map were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda va road map and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh va road map or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist va road map culture, va road map in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched va road map monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being va road map near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, va road map the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, va road map the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka va road map s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley va road map and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during va road map the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, va road map the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important va road map monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South.
1 Sights & Activities Nagarjunakonda Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am-5pm) This thoughtfully laid-out museum, located on an island accessible by boat, has Buddha statues and beautifully carved limestone slabs that once adorned stupas. Most are
Hyderabad s scene is growing, but drinking establishments are limited by an 11.30pm curfew law. Unless stated otherwise, the following bars are open to 11.30pm (but don t get going till 9pm). All serve food and charge covers ( 500 to 1000) on certain nights for couples, that is: guys usually need a gal to enter. Beer starts at 150, cocktails at 300.
Nand International HOTEL $ (%24657511; www.nandhotels.com; Kacheguda Station Rd; s/d/tr from 535/635/735; va road map a) The Nand is a pleasant surprise near Kacheguda Station. It has a roof garden with potted geraniums va road map (and chai on order), sitting va road map areas, water coolers, and well-looked-after peach-coloured rooms hung with weird mixed-media art.
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